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New FT rifle for the occasional match
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notec



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 1:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This may sound stupid, but I really enjoyed reading that. I hope someday to meet you in person, I can imagine the knowledge I could gain from you.

So at the 178 shot were you still getting the 797? If so, thats awesome.
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Scruffie
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 2:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

notec wrote:
This may sound stupid, but I really enjoyed reading that. I hope someday to meet you in person, I can imagine the knowledge I could gain from you.


I'm leaving that one alone. Shocked Razz Wink

Great info Keyrigger. Cool Are you using something like a golf stroke counter for keeping an accurate shot count??
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ExoticWoody
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 2:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question:
During this shot count testing period are you dry firing or are you pushing pellets through the rifle?.... TIA
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Keyrigger
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the velocity average was 797 for the first 124 shots, then with the change in pellet, the average velocity increaded to 801 fps and that was for the last 58 shots.

I keep track of the shot count by entering every reading into a spreadsheet in Excel that I put together. The spreadsheet isn't perfect, as there is at least one or two niggles that show up when there are no values and one that shows up with less than 50 shots entered.

Sigh, yup, every last shot was a pellet over the chronograph. I hate it, but it must be done at least once with every rifle. However, I never did it with the rifle when it was set as a Match rifle, as it would have been silly to waste over 400 pellets just to find that out. I went by manufacturers specs for that. Firing a valve without a pellet will not give you the same results as the backpressure helps to hold the valve open a bit longer, softening the re-seating of the valve, and changing air usage per shot. Some very high powered compressed air rifles, when fired without a pellet, can actually destroy the valve seal in very short order. I am trying to accumulate statistics for as many 12 fpe rifles as I can so that I can help sort out a troublesome rifle. I only have 4 different rifles, but they are all good numbers from people I have met or know personally. I have this on the British forum and they should have lots of stats, at least, I hope they post them. Take care and thanks, guys.

Don
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 4:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for posting that info Don ...
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Keyrigger
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a close-up of the new palm shelf and grip angle adaptor that I made up over at EW's. I ended up making a new one for the other rifle at the same time. Baltic birch is much nicer and stronger than Degrade, any day, lol


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notec



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KR.........do you have any photos of what the valve assembly looks like in that gun? Im just curious as to the componants.
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Keyrigger
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 2:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have these two pictures of the trigger groups and the valve stem, spring, and regulator piston and Belleville washers. The upper trigger group is the one in my 12 fpe Steyr and the bottom one is the 18 fpe Steyr. There are very subtle differences in the two. Springs are different, as well as sear engagement, and striker adjuster type. The 12 fpe rifle, remember, was actually a 10 Meter Match rifle, but there is very little internal differences in the two of them. The most obvious one is the true 12 fpe (16 joule) barrel, which is 450 mm long. The Match rifle and FT rifle have barrels that are 430 mm long. The other picture is the valve stem, which is similar to a great many rifles out there, but it is actually very small in diameter. The average QB valve stem is nearly twice as heavy and as large. The piston does not have the two "O" rings on it, as it is a spare unit. The Belleville washers are stacked one each way, small end down, and in four stacks of two, on the piston shaft. The small tip of the piston has the seal which is where the adjustment screw makes contact for setting the pressure. Very tiny movements are used to make adjustments as fine as a few PSI. There is probably more error in most gauges than there is in the set pressure of the regulator itself. To set the regulator, a certified, large dial gauge is the best and most accurate one to use. There is nothing more telling than to check a regulator done by another smith and find that it is nearly 15.5 BAR higher than it was marked as set to. I wish I had the machine shop I had twelve years ago...



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berny v
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 2:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOW Shocked it the reason of the cost of that gun Laughing
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notec



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quite a difference in the quality of material and machining compared to crosman eh Wink
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